It is a matter of knowing, of being informed, combined with the sensory experience of culinary medicine and of the pairings of foods (the association of two or more foods according to their molecules, their aromas, their combinations, etc. ). Because apples are not just apples.
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Envy apple
That is how we could sum up what the VIP-Vinschgau fruit and vegetable cooperative wanted to show on Thursday 26 and Friday 27 October 2023 during an event organized tour of its 'Apple paradise'. The recommendations were clear and simple. They consisted of: picking a real Vinschgau apple, tasting it like a professional sommelier, being kissed by the Vinschgau sun, witnessing the sorting of apples live, immersing oneself in a classic apple dish, and breathing in the fresh air of the valley at the top of one's lungs.
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The tour began at the apple orchard of Thomas Oberhofer, VIP's president and also a producing partner, where it was possible to witness the harvest of Club Envy apples. "VIP apples are grown between 500 and 1,100 meters above sea level, which gives us two advantages," says Benjamin Laimer, VIP Marketing Manager. "The first is to provide the market with consistent color, size, firmer flesh, better shelf life, but also a particularly intense flavor. The second is the very high quality of the product. This is due to the ideal microclimate, with more than 300 days of sunshine a year, low rainfall and a wide range of temperatures between day and night.”
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Benjamin Laimer, VIP Marketing Manager
"Today, consumers choose their favorite apple based on three parameters: promotion/price factor, habit, and color of the fruit," Laimer explains. "With new varieties, there is a risk that the expectations of the consumer will not be met. In order to avoid disappointment, we have to guide them in their choice with the help of useful tools. This is also because there are about 300 different aromas in apples.”
February 23, 2021 was an important date for VIP, which, after a long study, launched a new way to see and enjoy apples, called La Saporeria. "In the analysis of the characteristics of each variety, we were assisted by Christine Brugger, a sensory scientist from Switzerland. With her help, we have been able to identify the individual characteristics of each of the varieties. But now, we must take things a step further. The pairing of foods can be a valuable ally."
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We then tasted a few varieties based on their texture, flavor and aroma. The texture of an apple is determined by 5 essential criteria: crispness, hardness, juiciness, flesh fineness and skin thickness. The flavor of an apple ranges from sweet to sour. The different aromas of apples are divided into 6 aroma groups: spicy, citrus, green, tropical, fruity and floral. After analyzing 5 varieties, a combination of flavors was proposed: Golden Delicious apple + speck and envy apple + almond mousse.
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"The apple has been considered a superfood for decades," says Chiara Manzi, nutritionist and founder of Europe's first Culinary Medicine Academy. "When the beneficial properties of this fruit are combined with certain foods, the result is a concentrate of pure pleasure and wellness, which we can imagine as two wings of a plane flying over the apple orchards of the valley. The project I am carrying out with VIP is precisely to study how to combine the apple with foods and ingredients which enhance the organoleptic and nutritional properties and qualities, and to identify the scientific bases to support the sensory and territorial aspects."
"Together, we are trying to turn a habit into a good taste experience," says Laimer in closing.
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Chiara Manzi, expert nutritionist and founder of the first Academy of Culinary Medicine in Europe
It was easy to dive into the local culinary tradition (based on apples and more) thanks to Christian Pinggera and the dinner he offered at the Schnalshuberhof in Plars di Sopra, first mentioned in documents dating back to 1318. Pinggera is one of VIP's organic farmers. The Schnalshuberhof has been growing organic fruit since 1997: plums, pears, quinces, grapes and apples of the Gala, Braeburn, Pinova and Topaz varieties.
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On the second day, in the company of Roland Zischg, director of the Mivor cooperative, and Christiane Grfrei, quality manager, the invited journalists were able to have a first-hand look at the state-of-the-art technology in the plant. Automating and optimizing production processes is a key factor.
The tour ended with a visit to the Acqua Bianca quarry. Located at an altitude of 1526 meters at the entrance to the right orographic slope of the Lasa Valley, it leads several kilometers into the interior of the Lasa Marble Mountain through a labyrinthine network of tunnels and underground passages.
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Interesting to note is the white marble veined with apple blossom. Its name is inspired by the many orchards in the Adige and Vinschgau valleys.