In September New Covent Garden Market held an event to celebrate British Food Fortnight, where growers, traders, stakeholders and, of course the press were invited along for a tour of the on-going transformation of the market. There was also a chance to catch up with some the traders from the market to find out the pros and cons of the changing face of the market and the trade in general.
The original Buyer's Walk
Jason Tanner, MD of The Menu Partners and Premier Food Wholesale, is one the market's big success stories, his company has grown from nothing 25 years ago to a £370 million turnover across several sites and now distributes nationwide and overseas.
Gary Marshall, Owner Bevington Salads and Chairman of Covent Garden Tenants Association, is a well know face at the the market and he is known for speaking out on behalf of the traders. His passion for the market is clear to see.
Nick Padley, Manager, Side Salads, started out as a market porter 22 years ago. Fourth generation of his family in the market and other family members work here now. Side Salads is a traditional wholesaler, but they are starting to look at external distribution – mainly to hold on to regular customers who've not been able to reinvest in their own businesses and vehicles.
Iain Furness, director and part owner of The French Garden, came into the market 40-odd years ago and still loves it. The company imports from France on a daily basis and distribute around the country, they also sell to places like Singapore, Barbados and the Maldives.
Will Thorogood, MD of Thorogoods and Rushton's, a fifth generation greengrocer, Thorogood & Sons is the original wholesale company which had their centenary last year. Originally in Borough Market, the business moved here when the market opened [in 1974]. They are also in New Spitalfields and Western International. They predominantly sell British vegetables and salads and are starting to do distribution. The also acquired the Mushroom Man.
Gary Marshall's son George who works with his dad
Recruitment challenge
In the fresh produce sector and indeed in many sectors, recruitment is a big challenge. The unsociable hours of the market can often make more of a challenge.
Gary: "I've been chairman of the CGTA for 20 years, the market is one of those places where once you're in, you never want to leave."
He says that the opportunity for entrepreneurs with a good work ethic the market is massive. "The biggest problem we had 15 years ago was how we were going to recruit, to encourage young people to come into the market and work through the night. Somehow we've managed our way through that – the market now has got a really good balance. There are lots of younger faces out there, men and women, and it's lovely to see as we need their energy and desire to protect our futures. I know they'll do that; I think [the market's] future is in very good hands."
Nick echoes Gary's sentiment of when your in you don't want to leave. He say's that the generation coming through at the moment probably have a slightly different work ethic. It's a very hands-on job, you're never away from it whether you're here or at home. It's difficult to run your family life as well as work, no doubt about that. But when you do find someone who wants to take that on, you invest in them and get them more involved in the business. They are few and far between though.
"I've recruited kids of friends, I've recruited my own friends and family. You're always taking a gamble on people. I look for people who are reliable and have a good work ethic. It's often word of mouth, if we have someone who is good and they recommend someone else, then we trust that because they're not going to want us to recruit someone who makes their life harder by being lazy or unreliable."
All of the traders agree that it is a challenge to keep people long term.
Gary: "Big or small companies, the community on this site of more than 2,500 people all believe in the market and give it their best. It's difficult to ask young people to come to work at 8-9 o'clock at night, especially in this day and age when everyone likes to think there's something better out there for them. But when they get here, this community supports and cares for them. Once you're part of that, it's a real magnet to pull you in."
New facilities
The whole market is being rebuilt, this is no mean feat as it remains fully operational throughout. The shed are being demolished and traders moved while new units are built. Buyers Walk is split in two at the moment, with some traders still in the old part, while others have moved into the new section.
Jason: I appreciate that some companies are still working in the older part of the market, but I think the new facilities in the market now are beginning to make a real difference. We have two new facilities and we're able to retain staff for longer by giving them improved working conditions – our own toilets and canteens, for example.
Some of the fantastic tomatoes at The French Garden
Changing market footfall
According to Jason this business is 70% emails and phone calls now and there is a decline in face to face. Less people now come to the market to buy, so they've had to go out there and find new customers.
"We're in a different world now where everything is about service and so fast-paced and people don't have the time," agrees Nick. "You have got to make sure that what you're giving your customer is a high-quality product that they can trust. If everyone else is like us and finding it difficult to find staff, the last thing they need is to receive product that isn't up to the quality they require, or needs sorting through or sending back. I wouldn't say price is irrelevant, but it all used to be about price and increasingly, as long as you're in the right ballpark on price, service and quality have taken over in importance."
Tomorrow we will publish part two of the discussion with the traders